The Czech had a tradition of throwing people out of the window. So popular was this, of not dirtying hands and hoping the cobbled streets of Prague would finish the job, that they actually have a word for it- defenestration. Sometimes it did not work! In the third Defenestration of Prague in 1618, the nobles survived the fall. That led to murderous reprisals, war and the Austrian’s ruling over the erstwhile kingdom of Bohemia. Austrian influence shows up in the pastel-coloured pastry facades that stand cheek by jowl all over Old Town, looked down by tall gothic dark spires of the churches that belong to an older era.
Sometimes smokey, sometimes sparkling, Prague has a bohemian air… with gothic edging! She seems slightly mysterious, wise and definitely dances to her own tune. Lose yourself in her labyrinthine lanes or settle yourself in one of the many cobbled stone squares to watch the world go by. The people might have a slightly wary air but they know how to do a perfect roast not to mention a good tank of beer, apart from defenestrating people!
Atleast three days are needed to explore the old parts of Prague- Prazsky Hrad or the Prague Castle on a hill, Mala Strana or Lesser Town at its feet and Stare Mesto, or Old Town across the sinuous Vltava River. How should one plan them in this ‘city of a hundred spires’, where tall tales and taller spires, legends and history blur like fine shaded bohemian crystal?
Day1-
Walk to Old Town Square, the centre of gravity in Old Prague. Dominated by the twin albeit not identical towers of the Church of Our Lady before Tyn which date back to the 14th century, with the Jan Hus Memorial in the middle of the square. Prague’s iconic astronomical clock on the Old Townhall building marks the other side of the square but the clock faces a side like it wants all the attention to itself, and it gets it in hordes with crowds waiting for the hourly show of the apostles and a skeleton parading through the tiny windows. So, there is ample opportunity to see them. But the real beauty is the 14th century intricate three-piece clock.
Then, through a narrow alley with a sex machine museum, (Haha, there are museums galore here, for things you can and cannot imagine) souvenir shops, eateries etc, head to Wenceslas Square. More like a wide promenade, it has been the stage for many seminal events in Czech history. It ends at the foot of a hill with the National Museum on top.
Grab lunch at one of the many cafes lining the squares. Spend the rest of the afternoon discovering the bylanes of Old Town, chancing upon hidden treasures like the Franciscan Garden.
In the evening head through one of these lanes to treat yourself to a classical concert in a tiny chapel. The Mirror Chapel with its baroque interiors of gilded stucco, frescoes, mirrors and old organs is part of the Klementium, an old Jesuits’ College. An underrated place worth a visit as well. The experience of listening to soloists from the Royal Czech Orchestra is something even the cherubs on the roof seem to delight in.
Another underrated place is- Sojourns to Shekhawati
Day2-
Join a guided tour. Walk from the one of the oldest medieval relics- the sooty black, Powder Gate, past Charles university, the oldest university in Eastern Europe, through the Jewish Quarter with its Spanish Synagogue and a sculpture Kafka would approve of. Once one of the largest Jew ghetto it is now a tony commercial area. Cross a raised cemetery and reach the famous Charles Bridge over the Vltava. There are buskers and tourists, and statues that never leave the place lining the parapets.
Walk across to Mala Strana, all the while listening to tales which add vivid colour to the dull sepia tones of history. Discover Lennon Wall, the chaotic layers of graffiti telling a story of peaceful defiance in the shaded alleys of a district which now has staid embassies.
After a perk me up cuppa at the quaint café adjoining a giant waterwheel next to Lennon Wall head to St. Nicholas Church. It’s dome an oddity in a city of spires. Sit in one of the pews of the massive baroque church and take in the opulent interiors (and rest those tired feet.) Have chilled beer and lunch at one of the taverns. Board tram 22 from in front of St Nicholas Church and take a ride to get a glimpse the best of old Prague.
Spend the evening sipping champagne as you watch an abridged version of Swan Lake at the underground Broadway Theatre. It’s utilitarian interiors a complete contrast to the show on the stage. I felt I was in the communist era watching something subversive!
Day3-
Walk or take a tram to Mala Strana early. (In the same line you could end up with a vintage or an ultra modern carriage) Walk up to the ship-shaped Prague castle complex with the towering, dark St Vitus Cathedral in it’s centre. From the bastions get a bird’s eye view of the gardens and hidden courtyards of Mala Strana.
Discover- The Gardens of Delhi – A Walk Not Only on the Green Side but Through History Itself
The palace interiors are plain per se save the gorgeous giant tiled heaters. Explore the narrow Golden Lane with its cubby houses in a row, including number 22 where Frank Kafka once lived. Each one has been restored to give a visual feel of different people’s lives back in the day. The upper storey runs across many houses and holds soldier’s armoury.
The cathedral has the most stunning, literally and figuratively, high art! The full-length painted glass panes, some done by Mucha, are divinely beautiful with different hues through the day. Head to see the changing of the guard which happens at noon every day at the Mathais Gate. The expansive square in front is encircled by various palaces of noblemen. Have lunch at Kuchyn restaurant with a lovely view of green Petrin Hill and the terracotta roofed city before walking down to Mala Strana to lose yourself in its charming cobbled alleys.
Head to the Vltava River for a boat ride in the evening. Gently glide on a small shallow stretch to get a ringside view of both banks. End the evening at Letna Park to see, in the mellow golden hour, the many bridges spanning the curves of the Vltava between the slopes of old Praha.
Looking into the bewitching Bohemian Crystal that is Praha casts a spell. It will have anyone who visits it once coming back for an encore.
Fact File
Accommodation-
Old Town has many good options. Mala Strana has a few.
Getting around-
The trams are a great way to get not only a feel of the city, but to get around as well. Walking is inevitable in the cobbled streets.
Money Wise-
Though the Euro works well, the local Kroner is preferred.
Miscellaneous-
Tram 22 offers some of the most worthwhile views of the city.
Kuchyn and Lokal in Mala Strana are must trys for local cuisine. Book an outside table in advance at Kuchyn.
GuruWalk has some good ‘free walking tours’.
Book your event tickets through GetYourGuide which has good options.
The castle ticket can be booked online and has different variants.
