Billy Joel’s ‘Vienna’, without intending to, sums up the spirit of the metropolis. Vienna conjures up images of a grand old dame who savours her age. With coiffed silver hair, uber elegant, witty, no nonsense with a taste for the finer things in life who would probably say, ‘I go to Sacher Café for the ambience but my goodness, I wouldn’t wait in a line for the torte!’
Visiting any part of Central Europe is like getting a crash course on the Holy Roman Empire and its successor, the Austrian Empire. With Vienna as their capital, the empire’s finest, be it art, architecture or music- all is to be found in this sprawling city. The monarchs played their bit role but here, the queens are the ones still being eulogized.
Three days is just enough to explore the Inner town and some of the palaces around. If you want to thoroughly explore the architecture and dive into the art scene you might need to shift there!
Where-
There is no dearth of places to stay in Vienna and in 150-200 euro per night you will get good accommodation. Stay as close to Innere Stadt as possible, if not in it, with quick access to the metro, trams and, if possible, the HOHO buses.
Pro tip- A good area with lots of options is the adjoining Neubau area. The Westbahnhof station has the metro, trams, HOHO and the airport buses plying from it.
How-
1. Vienna has an excellent metro and tram network. The HOHO buses can be a good option to get around as well.
2.Out of the 3 lines of the HOHO buses, the Yellow Line has the maximum sightseeing places. The buses run approximately every half an hour starting 9:30 am onwards.
3.The metro is fast and each ticket costs 2 euro no matter what the destination. You need to validate your tickets on your own in the tram and at the metro station. Generally, no one checks but if you get caught without a validated ticket the fines are hefty. About 100 euros. Ulp-gulp!
Pro Tips-Time your visits to a place so that you don’t waste time waiting for the next ride while using the HOHO buses.
The HOHO buses start and finish at the State Opera House and the last bus on the yellow line finishes it’s circuit at 5:30 pm.
Passes and Tickets-
There is an entry ticket for everything. There are tickets for different portions and time slots for parts of Schonbrunn and Hofburg Palaces. The churches are mostly free.
There are two passes available in Vienna. The Vienna Pass gives you entrance to upto ninety attractions, fast track entry to many and includes the HOHO bus ticket. The Pass also includes a cruise on the Danube and a walking tour of the Innere Stadt area. It has options for 1,2,3 or 6 days.
The Vienna City Card is a transport card with three validity options- 24, 48 and 72 hours and includes all modes of transport in the city but not the HOHO bus which can be an add on. It gives discounted entry to many places apart from discounts at some restaurants, hotels etc.
Pro Tip-Buy a pass or card online. Unfortunately, there seems to be no system to book time slots online in advance.
Packing it in-
Vienna tests your walking shoes with its cobbled streets and pavements. Carry a pair of good walking shoes and an umbrella. Dragging a loaded suitcases on cobbled stones test’s your muscles and patience, so pack smart!
What-
Get a glimpse of the lives of the Habsburgs in their palaces with their baroque facades and opulent interiors. Soak in the silence in the interiors of the churches once you are done admiring their gothic spires or baroque domes.
Take a cruise down ‘Blue Danube’, indulge your inner art aficionado in the plethora of museums, catch performances in beautiful settings or simply lose yourself in the alleys of the Innere Stadt only to discover charming squares and buildings which seem covered with artisanal royal icing! How apt! Vienna wows whoever visits it. How to do it all in 3 days?
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Day 1-
1.Head early to Schonbrunn Palace, the summer residence of the imperial Habsburg family. Book your slot for the palace tour. If it is not available immediately, explore the garden behind the palace. It is a sprawl, with a zoo and a maze amongst other portions, so keep ample time.
It is a climb to the arches of the Gloriette Viewing Terrace beyond the garden, above the fountain of Neptune, but the view of Vienna is worth it. If you do not want to walk, hop onto a mini ‘train’ that does the rounds of the grounds which starts from in front of the Privy Garden.
Inside the palace enjoy the stunning virtual reality show as you walk through the frescoed interiors. Ooh aah over the opulent state apartments and ceremonial halls.
2.Move to Upper Belvedere built by Prince Eugene of Savoy. Maria Teresa turned it into Austria’s first public museum. Admire the pillars in the foyer before moving to the first floor to gaze at Gustav Klimt’s ethereal rendition of women.
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Sit on the stairs outside that lead to the rolling garden and savour the view. Lower Belvedere holds temporary exhibitions.
3.In the evening catch a concert at the Orangerie at Schonbrunn or at one of the churches.
Pro Tip-Viator and Get Your Guide have tickets for the performances. Book in time since the good ones get sold out much in advance.
Schonbrunn opens at 8:30am.
Day 2-
Reach the Hofburg Palace early. Book a slot for the Sisi Museum and State Apartments tour. In the 13th century the last of the ruling Babenberg’s started construction of the oldest parts of the palace. If Schonbrunn was all about Empress Maria Teresa, this winter palace is about the romanticized Queen Sisi. The palatial complex of extended wings, numerous royal apartments and courtyards demands time.
Watch a performance of the Lipizzaner horses at the Spanish Riding School. Pure-bred stallions perform dressage to classical music in a chandeliered arena. If you are short on time, catch their morning exercise which starts at 10am.
Go for a guided walk to soak in the stories of the surrounding Innere Stadt area.
Admire the crown jewels of the Habsburgs in the Imperial Treasury.
Gape in wonder at the interiors of the National Library. I wonder if anyone ever got any reading done under those frescoes!
You have probably earned a leisurely coffee break by now. Head to Sacher Café for the famed Sacher torte or for a side of history (and there is enough to pass around in Vienna) with your coffee try the iconic Café Central, which counts, apart from a catalogue of writers, Hitler, Tito, Freud and Stalin amongst it’s patrons. (Book a table in advance to skip the inevitable line.)
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Stroll through the cobbled streets to the gothic St Stephans Church. It’s mosaic tiled roof and towering spire blazing like a beacon in the setting sun makes a magnificent sight!
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Pro Tip- Plan your visit to the Hofburg Palace around the Sisi museum tour, the free walk which starts at 11:30 am and the Lipizzaner show.
Day 3-
Start with the Albertina Museum today. It houses Monets, Picassos, Degas and drawings by Leonardo Da Vinci along with many other masters .
Explore the State Opera whose interiors were rebuilt after World War II.
Head to Naschmarkt for lunch (there is even a Michelin-starred restaurant at the beginning!) and souvenir shopping.
End the day by putting up your feet with a cruise down the Danube.
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Pro tip- On Saturday, head for some treasure hunting to the Flea market at one end of Naschmarkt. Timing- 6:30 am onwards.
Be ready to be charmed by this cultural connoisseur’s city. It’s fabled savoir-vivre can leisurely be soaked in with a bit of planning. If you have time, a daytrip to Melk Abbey via Durnstein will be like a daydream!
