I caught my breath. Wow! We have to go here! The picture on my screen showed an azure lake with a little mole like island on its face, filling a bowl surrounded by densely forested mountains. Lake Bled as seen from a hiking trail. A hiking trail?…even better! Finalising our Slovenian itinerary was proving to be difficult. Apart from the capital Ljubljana, (not pronounced the way it is spelt at all) we were trying to narrow it down to two other places otherwise we would be on the road, crisscrossing the beautiful country on a ‘see-all-feel-none’ kind of trip.
Slovenia sits pretty, yet quietly between more famous neighbours- Italy, Austria and it’s Balkan cousin- Croatia, and that’s just as well. It is a tiny country not meant for the masses. You can drive across the country in a day, going from the Julian Alps to the Adriatic coast, crossing forested mountains criss-crossed by hiking trails and bears, valleys with quaint villages clustered around steepled churches and vineyards producing award winning wines to charming fishing villages clinging to the shore.
Discover- Barot – And the Serendipitous Catch in the Uhl River
There is Italy’s famous Lake Como, playground of the rich and famous, but with similar charm and a cozy, laidback beauty is what Lake Bled is all about and oh, this has a pastry named after it!
Speed up at Bus Stops
After exploring the smallest capital we have ever visited- Ljubljana (the name seems bigger than it!) with it’s castle and dragon stories, here we are at it’s bus-stand, no more than a cul-de-sac outside the railway station where the buses pull in, load up and depart on the dot. The grill door guarding the staircase leading to the loo in the basement of the ticket counter also does not wait a second extra I discover, to the exasperation of the guy with the key and my embarrassment as he probably catches me on the camera rattling the door trying to get out. All automated not to mention the most expensive loo in the entire trip!
Once on the move, we drive between mountain ranges, through lush green valleys and villages in a time warp, flocking like the faithful around fairytale churches with coloured spires, sometimes cherry red, some green and even a mulberry coloured one, towards the Julian Alps. The ranges close in and before we know it, we are in the small town of Bled spread on the only low-level opening to an alpine bowl. The bus-stop here is in the middle of a circular road in the centre of town. Clearly, the Slovenians see no point in wasting space for transiting vehicles. We wheel our luggage through the pathways winding down the gentle slope to the lake and to our small hotel overlooking it. It is more beautiful and alive in person. The lake catches the sun coming through the drifting clouds and chills the breeze blowing over it. It is a perfect day to be out and the crowds by the lake and those lunching on the patio outside the hotel all seem to agree.
Read about- Harlequin Holi at Todaraisingh
Promising Pathway
We leave our luggage at the hotel and dive into the crowd, strolling on the path between our stay and the lake that promises to wind around the waters and it delivers! It skirts the lake, never leaving sight of it. Initially it is in the shadow of a forested steep slope. We cross some manicured estates by the lake. Mansions sit in silence, facing the lake, impervious to the people at the back.
Explore- Bikaner’s Merchants and Their Mansions
Some sort of endurance event is on, with people running and jumping obstacles. A penalty seems to be to jump in the waters. It does not seem to throw cold water on their energetic enthusiasm. We take a picnic lunch break on a bench almost at the other end of the lake. All the while the island in the middle, famously Slovenia’s only one, has been beckoning us to take a gazillion pictures. A lot of people are rowing themselves to the island but it looks like quite the workout so we get into a wooden pletna to be ferried across. From this end of the lake, the castle on top of the hill, below which we walked, is visible. The sun puts a spotlight on the trademark terracotta tiled roofs on top of sheer white cliffs. The dark Karavanke mountain range in the horizon half hidden beneath low clouds makes a perfect foil to the bright foreground.
Discover- Tarsar Marsar : A Trekker’s Take
Boats, Bells and Beliefs
Getting off the boat at the island’s wooden jetty we climb up to the Church of the Assumption of Mary on top with its tall bell tower. Built over an ancient pagan site, the church has been rebuilt from gothic to the current baroque style in the 17th century. A café gives the church company and expansive steps lead down to the water on the other side. A small grotto sits midway, blessing the climbers. A pathway encircles the teardrop shaped island giving a view of the surrounding vistas. There is an air of wistful, wishful…peace? A bell in the nave tolls out every now and then, thanks to a popular belief that ringing it grants a wish. The sound carries the wishes far and wide into the valley.
Back on the shore we head to complete the walking circuit. A wooden portion on the crystal-clear water is a nice surprise. We stroll past some more villas discreetly screened by fall coloured trees & cross a lone swan meditating near the shore. A toboggan rail snakes down the middle of a meadow behind an estate. Back at the hotel we discover our tiny balcony faces the lake. Perfect place to put up the feet and have a deserving perk-me-up-cuppa!
Waiting to be Fed
Afterwards we head out for an early supper. In the golden hour people are already sipping their sundowners in the eateries lining the main road of this little town. The place we are looking for has the appearance of a charming farmhouse. The waiting is long but since goulash it has to be and it has to be this evening, we book a table and wander into town. In the next hour or so we explore most of it, crossing nary a soul save two fat cats who, after socialising, settle down outside a restaurant waiting to be fed.
We wander past the bus-stop right up to the foot of the castle hill. Admire some lovely houses and try not to pry into beautifully tended gardens! Exploring deserted bylanes we make our way back, to the still full quaint wood and stone interiors, for a definitely dinner time meal of flavourful game goulash. The hearty meal is a perfect rounding off to a dream day.
Bird’s Eye
Early next morning we hike up from our stay to the castle on top. It takes a little searching to discover the start of the trail which begins from St. Martin’s Parish Church at the feet of the castle’s cliffs. The church’s spire stretches like a needle pointed at the sky. There is a beautiful stone sculpture of Mary in front of the church along with bushes of peonies blushing a bright pink in the spring air. European Golden Finches, colour coordinating with the wild yellow flowers they frolic in, and a lawnmower that silently finishes its work and parks itself with precision in its cover at the base of a tree are the only life we see till we reach the parking outside the castle. Made in the 11th century it is apparently Slovenia’s oldest. The eyrie-like perch of the castle, offers a bird’s eye view of the azure-coloured lake below on one side and on the other, villages that dot the wide undulating valley ending in snow peaked mountains. In the distance, a hot air balloon drifts lazily.
Discovering Dibang Valley, the Last Frontier– Must read
The sumptuous breakfast we are served on our return on the patio outside our hotel is a glutton’s morning dream! The spread on the table and setting- the lake dazzling in the morning light stretching out in front, a tree on a side bowing to it’s beauty, all vie for attention. Delightful sparrows join us to help us finish our breakfast. (They have fine tastebuds!). I could do this every day… A wistful thought and a ringing of bells in the mind follows.…. till then I will carry a slice of Bled, as light as it’s memory, to savour later.
Fact File-
Distance-
Lake Bled is about 30 km from the airport and approximately 55km from Ljublajana.
Staying-
We stayed at Vila Preseren. A small and beautiful property with a fantastic location.
Eating-
The Oldest Bled Cellar is a charming place. The game goulash there is fantastic. It is best to reserve a table in advance.
The best place for Bled Cream Cake is the Park Restaurant where it was first made.
Entry-
There is an entry fee for the Church on the island and the castle.
The Castle timings are-
Summer: 8am-8pm
Winter: 8am-6pm