It was blue all around. Till an aqua ring popped up below and then some more…like Loktak’s phumdis. Only these were shallow reefs. An atoll followed, with slivers of islands guarded by a long reef where the ocean broke into white surf. Finally, the flattest piece of land, barely above the water. The airport took up an entire island. Outside, across the airport’s porch, speedboats bobbed up and down, waiting to whisk guests to islands nearby and for longer hauls, on the other side, the sea planes.
Here we were for a long weekend in the island paradise of Maldives. ‘Mala dweep, the garland of islands’. Cannot vouch for the veracity of that interpretation as one of the origins of the name but it seems apt. The archipelago nation spread over a vast area of water and barely any land, lies close to the equator in the Indian Ocean. An idyllic destination of water in every shade of beautiful blue alive with coral gardens teeming with sea life, and islands of green ringed with blindingly white sand of bleached ground coral. Where coconut trees pose, leaning just so, over a translucent shoreline, to give that perfect postcard picture. Our dream getaway was a smooth run thanks to our very own master planner but if you have to do it yourself what would you need to keep in mind?
IMUGA Form
Being a visa free country for Indians means all you need are your hotel booking details, ticket, beachwear, and your passport to hop onto a flight…and the IMUGA (Maldives Immigration) form submitted online. At Delhi airport the airline guys asked me if I had filled it. I had not because the site said I could do it ‘within 96 hours of arrival/departure’. They then gave me a heart attack by informing me that not filling it would make me incur a penalty of couple of lakhs! They tried to make me fill it right then and there, delaying security clearance which nearly gave me another heart attack! I filled and sent it while boarding and waiting to take off. At Maldives’ airport nobody asked. I filled up the one to exit at the hotel. Much as I had fallen in love with place I doubt I would have enjoyed the hospitality that might have followed if I hadn’t.
Footloose and Sandal Free
It does not really matter whether it is a days or a ten day trip when it comes to women and footwear. It is all about the possibilities. So even though I had carried cabin baggage only, I had catered. (even bought fancy flats!) Our boat docked at the resort’s wooden jetty and we walked into pristine white sand. More sand carpeted the reception, no flooring. Discovered that apart from the dining area, the bar and the cottage and its veranda, there was no flooring, no paths on the tiny island.
The shoes came off outside the room and that’s where they stayed till I left for the airport. Since I had carried no beach slippers I was barefoot everywhere, curling my toes into the divine sand. Bliss! Best to check the pics of the island and resort where you are heading. Otherwise leave the heels to cool off at home.
Stash the Sunscreen but Ditch the Liquor
Duh! The first evening was slightly cloudy with a flaming Sambuca sunset. The following days were pleasantly clear with a balmy breeze and inviting calm cool waters. Perfect to put on the snorkelling gear to explore the reefs surrounding the island all day long. So, our faces got saved but the backs went from touchy red to sullen brown. We came back branded with tan lines and burnt skin that soaked in the sunburn cream. Pack a good aloe vera based one for good measure.
Liquor is prohibited in Maldives since it is a Muslim country so don’t even think of carrying that hip flask, let alone a bottle. At the airport they flashed half a dozen things they don’t appreciate you bringing along and liquor topped the list. Having said that, it is served in the resorts. But the need for a sundowner is not always factored in the resort package for a perfect holiday. You might need to pay extra for an all-inclusive.
So Near Yet So Far
Maldives is an archipelago of atolls strung north to south like a turquoise necklace. Male and the Velana airport are on adjoining islands connected by a bridge. After landing, unless you are staying in Male, getting from there to your resort will involve a speedboat, a seaplane or another plane ride and then a speed boat. Besides adding to the cost, the seaplanes do not fly after 3:30 PM or so. If you land late, it will involve an overnight stay at Male or Hulhumale.
The Seas Steal the Show
If you dream of lolling around on a sunbed with a tall cool drink and that book you’ve been meaning to read, while the rhythm of waves gently lapping the shore is all the music your ears need, then at Maldives you’ve hit the jackpot. Ditto for those diving and snorkelling enthusiasts. On our island there was a reef just off a beach portion where we had to float flat out to avoid scrapping ourselves on the corals. A coral garden teemed with the most colourful life imaginable in front of our cottage. We floated over blue-tipped and pink corals. Sighted translucent fish just beneath the surface.
Swam with polka dotted, stripped, shaded and patterned fish and clams keeping time with the waves. Chanced upon frisky clown fish in the dancing arms of sea anemones and reef sharks going about their business. Oh, ah-ed over squadrons of Manta Rays gliding in front of the bar deck! Land looks bland in comparison. Only.. do not touch anything, it just might be poisonous. Life is as fragile as it is beautiful there and we saw swathes of bleached coral graveyards too. Check out the activity packages offered by your resort to max the wonders at hand.
Souvenir Squirrel’s need for Retail Therapy-
You are rejuvenated albeit a little charred but FOMO will not let you board a plane home without some retail therapy? For a shopaholic and souvenir squirrel for whom no holiday is complete without the proverbial acorn, Male is your best bet. Head to Majeedhee Magu or Chaandanee Magu, the two main streets lined with shops. Inhabited islands have their few shops too. The resorts have their souvenir shops and some stock exclusive things so do check them out but the variety would be limited and the prices exorbitant. In the airport after you clear immigration, opposite the perfumes and cosmetic section there is a shop for those last-minute token gifts.
Maldives is a bang worth every buck whether you are a laidback luxury lover or a water baby. You’ll come back dreaming of it and the sandbar would have been set high for any beach holiday to follow.
Fact File-
Getting There-
- Velana International Airport is very well connected.
- From there you can take a taxi, bus or ferry to Male.
- Your resort could be domestic flight, seaplane or speedboat away. There are no local ferries to the resorts. It is best to tie up the transfer to your accommodation beforehand.
- Local ferries connect Male to nearby atolls. Within the atoll ferries connect the islands.
Staying-
It depends on what you want to do. For a laidback holiday there is a plethora of resorts to choose from which go from chic to the uber luxurious. For budget travellers or those focused on diving, Male and other inhabited islands have hotels, guest houses and perhaps a few Airbnbs which are more reasonable.
We stayed at the Embudu Village Resort.
Best Time-
With its tropical climate it is a year-round destination. The high season runs from December to April. Monsoon season is not a bad time either. We went June end.